Dyer's Chamomile

( Cota Tinctoria )
Anthemis tinctoria. From the collection of the Main Botanical Garden of Academy of Sciences in Moscow (perennials plot).
Credit: Andrey Korzun. (2012)

Quick Facts:

Category: Natural Dye
Type: Herbaceous Perennial
Taxonomy: Plantae → Streptophyta → Equisetopsida → Asterales → Asteraceae
Relevant parts: Dye, flowers
Climate Zone: 2-9
Native to: Europe

Planting and Care

Light: full sun
Soil: well-drained loam
Water: drought tolerant but prefers constant moisture

Botanical Information

Height: 2ft
Spread: 1ft

Chamomile produces bright yellow, daisy-like flowerheads typically 2.5–5 cm across, with numerous ray florets surrounding a dense central disc. It blooms from June through September and is highly attractive to pollinators including bees, hoverflies, and butterflies.

Uses in Papermaking

Chamomile is a part of the daisy family and produces a yellow dye. Once the flowers are simmered, the solution cooled, and the solids strained out, and mordanted fiber or fabric is then added and simmered until the desired color is achieved. A substantial quantity of flowers is needed to produce a meaningful amount of dye; flowers can be collected as they bloom and frozen until a sufficient quantity has accumulated.

To prepare the dye, remove the flowers from the stems. Soak blossoms in hot water for 1 hour and then simmer for 1 hour. Can be left to soak for one to two days. After soaking, the dyestuff can be strained and applied to paper by dipping, spraying, or painting it on. A mordant like alum or iron oxide is used to fix the color, which is usually applied between each coat of dye. Use a mordant with tannins at 8% weight of fiber

Whenever preparing natural dyes it is recommended to designate a pot, utensils and measuring implements solely for dye purposes. Use proper protective coverings when handling cooking chemicals and solutions. Recommended to cook outdoors or in very well ventilated area on an electric burner.  

History and Culture

The plant has been used medicinally since ancient times, with references to its use found in Greek and Roman sources. It is recognized for its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and relaxant properties, and has been used to treat skin infections, reduce pain and swelling, and address anxiety and stress. It is also used as a digestive aid for conditions such as indigestion, gas, and bloating, and appears in cosmetic products for its skin-soothing and moisturizing qualities.

Stem and leaves of Dyer's Chamomile
Stem and Leaves , Credit: Andrea Moro. (2017)
Unopened flower blossom
Flower Bud , Credit: Krzysztof Ziarne. (2021)
Botanical illustration of plant
Botanical Illustration , Credit: Christiaan Sepp. (1822) Flora Batava, Volume 4.
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